Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Travel Guard Indigenous Village West Sumatra of Indonesia

I catch the scent when setting foot on the island of Sumba for the first time. The airport Tambolaka smelled like flowers that blend the leaves and woods. Here Sumba, where savannas fenced beach and blue sky. Sumba, the land of Rato, where blood was spilled to drop dead.

I headed first city named Waikabubak, the district capital of West Sumatra. This city within an hour's drive from the airport Tambolaka. Waikabubak suggested by many fans as a postal journey to explore the surrounding region and West Sumba.

After putting bags in the hotel, I was getting around the city armed with a piece of the map. The first goal is to find food stalls, I found a new one after walking a bit away from the inn. Later I knew that the diner is scarce in Sumba. They only exist in some cities, the rest is on the edge of the terminal or stopover main road.

Not far from the road Bhayangkara which is the main street, there are three traditional villages namely Tarung village, town and village Prai Waitabar Klembung. Although located in the city center three village residents is still adhere to traditional beliefs. Climb a bit, I found a collection of wooden houses thatched with grave stones around it.

This custom home has three parts. Bottom is a pet shelter as buffaloes, pigs, goats and chicken. On it was part of a family residence. The villagers told me that once, one house can accommodate 60 people sleeping around the fireplace.

At the center of the traditional house there are always lit fireplace. Above the fireplace hung containers cooked food, so as not to eat animals that roam freely in the house. Fire also keep food warm and durable.

The third part is the roof of the house. Sumba traditional house roofs towering, can be up to 8 meters. On the roof there is space that is used to store food reserves. Equipment ceremony also usually stored here.

The inhabitants of the village are very friendly invites me to talk. They were surprised when I explained that I came alone from Jakarta, then greeted me as "sister Miss". Residents of the village told him about marapu, Sumba traditional religion. Marapu is the belief in the spirit world which have great impact in the lives of people who are still alive. Although worshiping ancestors, not that adherents Marapu no God. Marapu faithful adherent to the creator who heard and seen everything the man.

Worship of spirits cause funeral be important for adherents marapu. They believe that the person who died had to be escorted to the nature spirits with considerable ceremony. Otherwise, his spirit will hover so as to endanger the relatives or others.

Funeral ceremonies involving animal sacrifice in bulk, Dozens of buffalo, horses and pigs must be slaughtered to complete the ceremony. The bodies are then placed in the grave or in the grave stone. Although now many people have embraced Christianity, this ceremony is still being done. Most of the bodies also remain buried with grave stones bearing crosses.

In the village, as well as in the city, I saw a lot of citizens who bear a machete. Apparently a native Sumba sharp machete sheathed accustomed to the waist, wherever they go. I met a father who proudly tell the story about the machete. He claimed to have used machetes to kill people. "But that was then. Now bring the machete became one of my ways to keep the tradition," the father said.

Blood and war is not foreign to the indigenous people of Sumba. It is said that in ancient times, villagers have the habit of decapitating and flay an opponent who lost the war between tribes. The village has a drum that is layered human skin. Unfortunately, I can not see it because of this little drum out only during traditional ceremonies. Until now tribal wars still occur due to various reasons, including the seizure of land boundaries.

Bustling village atmosphere with mothers who weave the fabric on the front porch. This weave is made with simple tools and decorated traditional symbols Merapu. A piece of cloth weaving takes one to two weeks and will be sold starting price of USD 50 thousand. The villagers seemed already familiar with the arrival of tourists, who will be asked to sign the guest book and leave a donation. Children will be greeted cheerfully, with the hope of getting a piece of candy.     

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